Seam for sewed articles.



T. J. HAYES. SEAM FOR SEWED ARTiCLES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 19, 1913.

' Patented May15,1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Witnesses.

XMML

@wam.

T. J; HAYES.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPL1CATION Fl LED JULY19|1913- 1 ,Q26,2 1 Patented May 15; 1917.

2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

Fig.4.

Witnesses. I I nvenIor. I Thomas J. Hayes.

UNITED; STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS J. HAYES, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO AEBETTER FEELING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR. SEWED ARTICLES.

Continuation in part of application Serial No. 667,467,'fi1ed December 23, 1911.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 15, 1917.

This application filed July 19, 1913. Serial No. 729,943.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, THOMAS J. HAYES, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to a seam for sewed articles designed to be made by a sewing machine and particularlyadapted for use in what is known as felling work, where the edge either raw or folded, or a superimposed layer or layers of fabric is attached to a base layer by blind stitches, or stitches entering and emerging from the same face of the work.

It is the object of the present invention to provide such a seam which can be readily made by a machine handling two threads, and in which both threads are substantially concealed beneath the edge of the superimposed fabric.

The nature of the seam will appear more fully from the accompanying description and drawings, and will be particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

The drawings illustrate a preferred form of the seam.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a view in perspective of the seam partially made, and showing the needle about to make a stitch in a superimposed fabric.

Fig. 2 is a viewsimilar to Fig. 1 showing the needle about to make the stitch in a main or base layer of fabric.

Fig. 3 is a view of a section of the seam with the superimposed layer cut away to indicate in a general way how the stitches lie in the fabric.

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective of the seam showing'both threads entirely concealed beneath the superimposed edge and the way in which this result is secured.

In the seam as illustrated in the drawings there is necessarily much exaggeration of the fabrics, and-the illustration is not to be taken as exact but as for the purpose of disclosing the construction of the seam, and the vary in position relative to the fabric dependent upon the tension applied. to the threads, and may be drawn into either fabl'lC or left on the surface. Again it is to be understood that when the seam is finished and the threads drawn up snugly by the tension, the edge draws over to a greater or less extent and'thus brings substantially all of both threads beneath the edge, thus substantlally concealing the entire mass of thread. Again it will be seen that the proximity of the location of the stitch in the main or base layer to a position beneath the edge varies the extent of concealment.

The seam of this invention may be made by hand, but it is particularly designedto be made by a lock stitch sewing machine employing a curved needle, such for example as illustrated in Patent No. 1,131,373, granted March 9, 1915,for' blind stitch sewing machines.

In the drawings, 1 represents the base or main layer of material, such for example as the fabric of a coat or dress, and 2 represents a superimposed layer orlayers of material, such for example as the lining. This superimposed layer or layers may present upon the main fabric 1 a raw or an inturned edge, the latter being illustrated as in the case of ordinary lining material.

I making the seam, two threads are employed which may be described as a needle thread 3 and a bobbin thread 4, although so far as the seam structure is concerned it' is immaterial what designation be given these threads, or by what particular instrumentalities they be placed in position in the work.

In the drawings, the needle thread is indicated as being manipulated by a curved eye-pointed needle, but this is not essential to the seam structure, and is illustrated simply because the seam is preferably made by a machine employing a curved needle. The bobbin thread may be inserted by means of the familiar type of rotary hook and in closed bobbin and bobbin case such as illustrated in the before mentioned patent, but any suitable instru'mentality may also be used for manipulating this thread.

The seam illustrated is shown as beginning and 3, when thus constructed the needle 7 thread enters the base layer at the point 5- and emerges therefrom on the same surface at the point 6, thus making a stitch preferably parallel, and substantially close, to the edge of the superimposed layer. The needle is then retracted throwing out a loop 7 and the bobbin thread 4 is. passed therethrough. A relative movement longitudinally of the edge is then givento the work and the needle, such for example as takes place in the feed of the machine. The needle then makes a second stitch entering the superimposed layer at or beneath or under the edge, as at the point 8, and emerges at a similar point 9 at, beneath or under the edge. Upon the retraction of the needle the loop 10 is thrown out and the bobbin thread 4 is passed through this loop. Again a relative longitudinal movement is given to theneedle and the work, and the operations described are repeated throughout the length of the same.

Preferably the points 8 and 9 or the points at which the needle enters and emerges from v the superimposed layer or layers of material are fairly well underneath the edge or beneath the edge so that when tension is applied and the threads are tightened up the edge of the superimposed layer will be pulled or drawn over toward the points 5 and 6 thus bringing both threads beneath the edge of the superlmosed layer and so substantially concealing them from view. Both threads of the seam may be practically entirely concealed by means of this invention by slightly raising the edge of the super-- imposed layer and causing the needle thread to enter and emerge at points in the base layer both located beneath the edge and causing the needle thread to enter and emerge at points in the superimposed layer at points both located on the under surface of the superimposed layer or that portion of the surface which will be underneath and adjacent the base layer when the threads are drawn up in the finishing of the seam.

There is illustrated in Fig. l in'perspective, a seam thus formed. Such a seam may readily be formed by hand or by a machine of the type illustrated in the aforesaid patent in which a curved needle is employed operating in a plane at an angle to the vertical. The needle may thus, especially if the edge of the superimposed layer be lifted at the time of makin the stitches, enter the base layer at' the point 50 and emerge therefrom at the point 60, both of said points being well under the edge in its final position. Likewise the needle may enter and emerge from the superimposed layer at points 80 and 90 respectively both ofwhich are located beneath the edge in the under surface of the superimposed layer or in that portion of its surface which will come underneath and adjacent the base layer when the seam is finished. With the curved needle and with the edge raised, the points 50 and 80 may and preferably will be respectively farther in concealing the bobbin thread4. The stitches in the superimposed layer when the seam is finished may and usually will lie nearly directly over those in the base layer but they are shown in Fig. 4 somewhat separated for the sake of clearness of illustration.

The stitches being blind no thread of course need show on the reverse side of the work. V

The loops which are laid in the base layer and in the superimposed layer are shown as concatenated by means of a separate or bobbin thread, but the invention is not to be restricted in its broadest aspects to the use of two separate threads, and the bobbin thread 4 is illustrated as one and the preferred means for concatenating the loops of the needle thread. v i

This application is a continuation in part of application, No. 667,467, filed December-23,1911, upon which Patent No.1,131,373 above referred to was granted.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, the said layers being fastened together by a thread presenting two rows of loops, the points of entrance and emergence of each loop of one row being located in the upper surface of the base layer beneath the superimposed layer, the

points of entrance and emergence of each loop of the other row being located in that portion of the surface of the superimposed layer adjacent the base layer, and means for concatenating said loops.

2. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, the said layers being fastened together by a thread presenting two rows of loops, the points of entrance and emergence of each loop of one row being ing two rows of loops, each loop of one row laid close to said edge and entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer, each loop of the other row laid beneath the upper surface of the superimposed layer and entering and emerging from the surface of the superimposed layer at or under the edge, and means'for concatenating said loops.

4. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, the said layers being fastened together by a thread presenting two rows of loops, each loop ofone row laid close to said edge and entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer, each 100 of the other row laid beneath the upper sur ace of the superimposed layer and entering and emerging from the surface of the superimposed layer at or under the edge, and a second thread locking the loops of the said two rows together.

5. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, thesaid layers being fastened together by a thread presenting two rows of loops, each loop of one row laid close to said edge and entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer, each loop of the other row laid be-.

neath the upper surface of the superimposed layer and entering and emerging from the surface of the superimposed layer at or under the edge, and a second thread passing through each of said loops and forming therewith a lock for said loops. 7 6. A seam for sewed articles comprisin a main layer of fabric, a su erimposed layer presenting an inturned e ge thereon, the

said layers being fastened to ether by a thread presenting two rows 'o 100 s, each loop of one row id close to said e go and entering and emerging from the upper sur- I face of the base layer, each loop of the other row laid beneath the upper surface of the superimposed layer in t thereof, and entering and emerging from said inturned portion at or under the edge,

edge thereof.

8. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric,a su erimposed layer presenting an inturned e ge thereon said layers being fastened together by a thread presenting two substantially parallel rows of loops each loop of one row laid in the base layer close to said edge and entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer without passing through the under surface thereof, each loo of the. other layer laid in the superimpose layer and entering and emerging from the under surface there- "of at or under the edge without passin through said layer, the points of entry an emergence of successive loops, one in the base layer and one in the superimposed layer being substantially opposite.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

I THOMAS J. HAYES:

Witnesses:

NATHAN HEARD,

I THOMAS J. DRUMMOND.

e inturned portion 

